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20240516 Julian to I-10 (mile 209)

Danny Crewe

21 May 2024 — 9 min read

Have you ever heard a rattlesnake use its rattle in anger? I have, and it is LOUD. It doesn't sound like it does in films, like a delicate castanet, slow and threatening. It is a harsh whirring, a vibrating, oscillating, terrifying VRWRWRWRWRW sound that fills every empty inch of air. I have seen plenty of rattlesnakes by now, but all of them either juvenile or so sedate that I was never in any real fear of danger. Coming down the north side of the San Jacinto mountain though, having just sailed over the mile 200 marker, I did hear one. And it not only scared the life out of me, but I jumped so high that I lost an earbud.

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The 100+ miles from Julian have been incredible, beautiful, and exhausting. Every day sweat pours down my face with the effort of carrying a 7-15kg pack across challenging terrain, and I invariably shake my head in disbelief that I have willingly brought myself here. Every day I also see and do things which I could never have imagined a month ago, and without fail there is at least one moment when I nod to myself and think "yes, I am walking to Canada."

On Sunday the 12th we gave ourselves a well deserved 'zero' day, a day in which we committed ourselves to walk exactly zero trail miles. We had made it into the delightful mountain town of Idyllwild, where the mayor Max greets visitors daily, and is a very good boy. After a mountain diner breakfast of "chicken fried steak", eggs over medium, a hash brown that overspilled the bin lid of a plate, and an entirely separate bowl of biscuits and gravy (the biscuits are made from butter and flour, while the gravy is made of flour and butter!) we checked in to a nice hotel with plenty of facilities. Part of the fun of this experience is being constantly at the mercy of post office opening hours, and the Idyllwild post office was shut all weekend (no doubt Mayor Max is in the pocket of the unions). With no way to pick up the necessary provisions to continue the onward slog, we gave ourselves a pass to enjoy the rest of the afternoon and sat in a hot tub drinking wine.

The next day after much faffing around, we did eventually get ourselves equipped with the new shoes we so sorely needed, as well as micro-spikes (mini elasticated crampons) and food for the next stretch. We hailed a ride up to the trailhead with local hiker-friend Grumpy, a bizarre character known for ferrying people around as part of the informal 'trail angel' economy, and began the long walk to the base of the San Jacinto peak trail. Unsurprisingly this was entirely uphill, and while our new shoes felt great, we were carrying more now than ever before. We also did not set off until 5pm, and by the time we had made it the 4 miles to our planned tent site the sun had long set. The moon was bright and the snow patches shone between the thick pine trees, and to save time we simply camped out on the forest floor, toasty in our sleeping bags at 2,600m.

The next morning at 3am we awoke and quietly got started. By 4:15am we were well on our way, and by 5:30am the sun had started to rise and the mercury was creeping up. The plan, to reach the summit of Mt San Jacinto, one of the tallest mountains in the Southern California section, hinged on the snow staying crunchy enough that the micro-spikes made a difference (once the heat of the day started to turn it to slush they made very little difference). Neither of us had much experience to speak of on snow prior to this trip, so it was important as a confidence boost knowing that we are heading towards the Sierra Nevada in a slightly higher-than-average snow year. The early start proved to be crucial, and we made speedy progress up the mountain in our spiky shoes - and by 7am we were blinking in the sunlight at 3,288m above sea level. A new personal best, and a new high for the trip.

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Back at a much lower elevation, the whirr of the rattlesnake still ringing in my ears, the high was definitely fading. It had been a hot, hot day, and we had not been able to find any shade to sit out the noonday sun. It was now getting dark, we had another 2 miles to walk until a reliable water source, and the wind was picking up. It had been much the same ever since we had started the descent from the summit, nearly a day and a half earlier. Coming down another endless switchback, however, I had another of those "I'm going to Canada" moment; with two massive granite bastions framing the view ahead, sun blessing the foothills, a farm of wind turbines spinning, and the sound of a freighter thundering across another flat desert valley bottom - I was glad and grateful to be where I was. And tomorrow I would cross the Interstate-10 highway heading north.

Journal (days 8-18)

Sunday 5th May (day 8) - Walked 18.3 trail miles. Windy start, felt like a winter walk along the seafront. Bright rainbow across the flat bottomed canyon. The wind never let up and carried on all day - gusts of 50mph. Some hairy sections as we ascended back up. Listened to a random selection of liked songs on Spotify most of the way, got our first look at the prairies around Warner Springs. Set up a miserable camp late (only spot for our tent was in the middle of the site where everyone was talking) and had many burnt pots. Slept well.

Monday 6th May (day 9) - Walked 14.6 trail miles. Descended into the prairies approaching Warner Springs. Cow country. Made a nice change from the desert valley hills, and certainly from the wind. The day felt HOT. Saw Eagle Rock, very impressed. Time-pressed to get to the gas station to resupply (weird opening hours). Ate one of Mad Mike's famous sausages and it was delicious. Spent $130 on a small basket of not very nice food. Went to the local community centre for a bucket shower and to charge our devices. Did laundry in their big sinks. Met JJ and Ghost, both tallbros doing big miles. Headed back out to the prairie in a gorgeous evening. Passed through mature woodlands with gigantic oaks.

Tuesday 7th May (day 10) - Walked 14.7 trail miles. Slept in the 'trash lounge' at Mike's Place. Saw him out the front - he don't look too good. Sharing the floorspace with another Grace and a grown man calling himself Gizmo, such is the trail life. I tagged the wall with a Sharpie: 'Marzipan, 24.5.7'. Not even I am immune to the fever (it could be norovirus).

Wednesday 8th May (day 11) - Walked 18.6 trail miles plus many more in side quests. Long day. Started at Mike's Place and made it to Little Bear Hostel. First 20 mile day. Hot. Headphones in, staring at the floor. Grace royally cheesed off by the end. Both sore. The descent down to the hostel would never have met council licensing approval in the UK, nearly died twice. Beautiful views over the valley though. The hostel promised cold beer and frozen pizzas and didn't fail to deliver. Lower back is totally messed up from the hip belt on my bag.

Thursday 9th May (day 12) - Walked 12.5 trail miles plus a 2 mile side quest. Had a shower at the hostel before a hot walk to the trailhead where a man calling himself 'Grumpy' gave us a ride to Paradise Valley Café. Ate humongous burgers and drank large Coca-Colas in the shade. Jane and Jerry, charming trail geriatrics who had been at the hostel.the night before, and who we had hiked with in recent days, sneakily paid our tab. Touched. Made it back to the trail to get a few more miles in. Camped at a spooky spring a mile off trail. Off-trail miles are the worst miles.

Friday 10th May (day 13) - Walked 10.8 trail miles plus a 1 mile side quest. Terrible night down at the spring. Felt like a graveyard. Few places to camp. Both weary from late lunch and late miles. Walked up and up and up all morning. Christine appeared from behind us. She rolled an ankle and is feeling ill. Low on water. Noodles and a nap for lunch listening to the brutal scene in For Whole The Bell Tolls in the town plaza. Stopped listening after that. Later met Mia and Soren. Hiked up and up and up some more. Planned to meet them at mile 171 but only made it to Apache Spring off mile 169.5. Camped and ate with Christine and views over palm springs. Really nice.

Saturday 11th May (day 14) - Walked 10.2 trail miles plus 4 miles in side quests. Can't keep saying 'this was the most difficult day so far' but this was the most difficult day so far. Arse completely beaten up by the elevation gain, the tree blowdowns (literally hundreds to navigate), and the snow (encountered earlier than expected, before we had our snow gear). Day started at 5am with sunrise over Palm Springs and Coachella Valley. Visited by a hummingbird twice.iber lunch. Grace fell down and messed up her knee which we had to bandage. Found other hikers at an ephemeral water source, including Seth from Scout and Frodo's, new friends Aloha and Nappy, and a leathery old dude doing the trail in a tank top and 1" inseam running shorts. The snow made everything ten times more difficult, and sapped energy. It was beautiful though and I'm glad we didn't skip this section like many others seem to have. By the time we got to Tahquitz Creek we were ready to take an alternate route up to Saddle Junction to avoid any more significant snow. From there it was another grueling three miles down to the car park. Need new shoes desperately as mine are now beginning to separate entirely from the uppers. Grace needs trousers. We both need a rest. Saw Nikki and Cheeto and Karate Kid from Scout and Frodo's place. Got a hitch with the first person Grace asked (she has the Midas touch) and got down to Idyllwild in no time at all. Had a beer and then went to Soren and Mia's friend Soji's place to shower and do laundry, Ursa Manor, a quaint little bear themed cabin. Went out for Mexican food - had asado carne tacos with guacamole, onions, and cactus. Plus a large Margarita. Came back and crashed in the master bedroom. Out like a light.

Sunday 12th May (day 15) - Walked zero trail miles! Delightful day. Woke up and slept in, went for a huge mountain diner breakfast including decaf coffee (journey to caffeine liberation continues). Phoned mother for American mother's day. Bumped into lots of other hikers around town. Had a glass of 2017 cinsault at the Middle Ridge Winery. Headed to Grand Lodge Hotel and spent the rest of the afternoon using the various facilities (napping and scrolling). Went out for pizza at Ferro and it was delicious. The whole walk down into town both remarking how lovely Idyllwild is. Drunk on pleasure. Came home and slept for 8 hours solidly.

Monday 13th May (day 16) - Walked 1.1 trail miles plus 4 miles in side quests. What seemed like an eon faffing around at the post office. Hit trail late (another lift from Grumpy, still no idea what he was saying in the car). Cowboy camped in the snow. Feeling powerful with the new shoes.