20240504 Campo to Julian (mile 77)
Writing this from the tent about three miles up from 'scissors crossing', a place name which meant nothing to me a week ago but which I now know well. It is eerily still, though just an hour ago it was gusty and the sky is threatening rain later. Big clouds are mounting up on the horizon. We abandoned one potential campsite earlier in the evening due to it being in a flashy looking gully and not wanting to risk getting washed down the mountain in the event of a storm.
Today was a 'nearo' (nearly a zero, i.e. a day of hiking zero miles). We stayed at an RV park the night before, Grace and I splitting a four bed cabin with our new hiking friend Ali. We had arrived parched from the desert, managing to hitch a ride with the first pick-up truck that passed.
"I hope you guys don't mind riding in the back - I've got a cooler full beers there, help yourselves."
In short, the best possible outcome after a week hiking through arid heat and dusty hills.
The morning after our only opportunity to do laundry in a week, we hitched another giddy ride into the ex-mining town of Julian for the first real milestone on the PCT. We resupplied our empty food bags, replaced and repaired gear where necessary, and ate the traditional free slice of apple pie from Mom's Bakery. We also had lunch in the Julian brewery, which was like a UK Harvester but better, and reminded me pleasantly of childhood (mini Caesar salad with jumbo croutons, BBQ crunchy corn salad and mac and cheese).
The spot where we are camped tonight is okay enough - despite the curséd cacti which I have walked into twice already. Eating our instant 'rice-a-roni' packet meal out on an outcrop looking over the flat valley bottom a distressed hiker passed us on the path below going southbound. It was nearly dusk so Grace called out. She told us that she had failed to set her tent up once already further along the ridge due to the high winds. We found her a place to pitch among our tents and she gave us Oreos, telling us she had been up since 4:30am and walked 18 miles to get there. We, who had walked just two miles that day, found this both absurd and hilarious and helped her get set up. Ten minutes later it was dark, and we all retired to our tents to sleep in anticipation of the coming weather.
Camped here are Grace and myself, Christine, Neil, and Jamie and Mel. We have fallen into a hiking rhythm over the last week with around a dozen others who we typically meet up with. It's nice, and I can see why the social aspect of the trail is so important to the experience. It is also a very international trail - of those of us camped here tonight only a couple were born in the USA.
Tomorrow we carry on in search of water (the desert has been beautiful so far with every creek in full flow, though now we enter a dry section). In a week or so we reach the San Jacinto mountains where we should encounter some snow and the real work begins.
Having a lovely time.
Journal
Sunday 28th April - Day one on the trail. Set off from the southern monument alone, and late. The weather was scorching. ATVs ripped along the dusty tracks around the wall. Put one foot through the border into Mexico. Ate a tortilla wrap filled with crisps at CLEEF (Camp Locket Equestrian & Event Facility) about a mile in and 'cameled' up with water. Carried unnecessary water for many miles this day, all streams flowing for first time in years. Saw what we believed to be eagles but which may have been condors. Saw snakes and horned lizards. Camped at mile 8.8 with views out over Mexico.
Monday 29th April - Woke drenched in condensation and headed out. Everything, including my sleeping bag, soaked. Caffeine withdrawal headache and bright sunlight. Established a strategy of no sun protection at first, with layers steadily building up and full protection by 11am. The clobber remains on until early evening. Met Eileen from the PCT shuttle heading back the other way halfway down to Hauser Creek (she had forgotten her poles two miles back, did not see her again that day). At the Creek met Ali and Christine and Neil. Neil forgot his poles too at the creek.
At Lake Morena I got a burger and some mystery pink liquor and snacks. Astrid turned up, briefly, a runner with an agenda. She seemed nice but I doubt we will ever see her again given the miles she is doing. Walking out of town in good spirits we walked through the desert and saw my first rattlesnake (a baby one). Grace convinced me to cowboy camp (camping under the stars with no tent). Slept at mile 23.5.
Tuesday 30th April - Restless night. Mosquitos buzzing so had the bug net on. Didn't stop something biting/stinging my lip and half my face swelling up. Funny photos. Incredible views of the stars and the mist over the lake in the morning. Crossed our first creek under a bridge and then walked through lush grassy fields with mature oaks. Second creek crossing. Wet feet on the walk up to Boulder Oaks campground. Bumped into Andy, Neil, and Eric at the latrines. Walked on to Kitchen Creek (accidentally went down the wrong way, added heaps of unnecessary ascent/descent in the sun. Finally made it, it was worth it. Headed in with Neil and Ali and met Eric down there. Soon joined by others including Christine. Met new friends Mia (who I had seen the morning of day two with Soren). Got in one of the pools and washed the salt from my skin and felt fantastic.
On the onward journey we had a long exposed hike to a spring that promised low flows of 1L/min but was barely a tenth of that and then completely stopped. We ate ridiculously spicy kimchi ramen and slept at mile 38.7 at a crossroads in what would surely have been some land used for keeping livestock - though no evidence of current use. The scale of space in America is jaw dropping. Where are all the people?
Wednesday 1st May - Low miles, both weary and couldn't go further without making it into a marathon slog due to the camping restrictions around Mt Laguna. Woke at spring meadows and broke camp late. Grumpy again from lack of caffeine. Sore from 17 miles the day before. Made it to the Post Office at 10:40am to find it didn't open until noon. Just as well we didn't get up any earlier. Spent morning chatting to others and agreeing that we would all split the Mt Laguna campgrounds ten miles ahead. Hot showers and five dollars each. Enjoyable. Met some other Brits. Was told off for drinking a can of "Bud heavy" by Ali, which is what they call regular Budweiser there i.e. not Bud Lite. Slept at mile 43ish.
Thursday 2nd May - Strong morning, 10miles before 11am. Hottest day so far. Stopped at the creek at mile 57.5 for a couple of hours. Gorgeous morning walking strong. Having headphones in and music made a massive difference (first time doing so - vague fear of rattlesnakes though). Phone signal starting to become less available. Slept on a dried out creek bed, baked from the sun and which remained warm all night. Everything coated in a fine layer of silt though. Slept near mile 63.
Friday 3rd May - 5am time to get up. Slept at a good temperature, although the sound of critters kept me up for a while. Hallucinations of mice tearing into my pack and chewing up my shoelaces. The morning desert is beautiful. The colours are vibrant, the birds are hooting, and everything smells of honeysuckle, caraway and hot cross buns. Realised I had walked two miles the wrong way and was in a foul mood the rest of the morning playing catch-up with everyone else. 9:40pm bed time. Arrived at Scissors Crossing around 2pm burnt from the sun and after crossing the flat desert valley floor to the highway. Hitched a hilarious ride to the RV park with some soccer fans. Drank the coldest beer I've ever had from the back of a pick-up truck. Slept around mile 77.
